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After World War 2, Macedonia was recognized as an independent country within the Yugoslav federation with Skopje becoming its capital city.
Skopje began to industrialize in the 1950s. This resulted in a surge of migration from villages in its periphery and other parts of the country. This is the period that brought a large-scale urbanization with the construction of residential buildings in and outside from the city core. What used to be a small city core with alleys and small houses, grew into a quiet little city that attracted a constant stream of new residents. Between 1950 and 1960, the population rose by 60,000 people and by 110,000 between 1960 and 1970. Those who call themselves "Stari Skopjani" - the Old Skopjeans, have a great sense of pride of having lived during the golden days of the city. During this period, roughly 1950s to 1980s, people could enjoy the niceties of the urban lifestyle while also enjoying the quietude of its semi-rural characteristics. All of the new neighborhoods were developed with open spaces between the buildings and lots of green areas. Children stayed out only when they weren't in bed and the elders strolled around, enjoying the only time in Macedonian history that can be described as peaceful and free of threats. Although crime statistics are hard to find, it is generally remembered that there were exceedingly few homicides during this period. Also, cultural life thrived thanks to the few cinemas, theaters and dancing parties. All of the iconic buildings, like the Macedonian National Theater and the Post Office in the Center, were developed during the time of Yugoslavia. These buildings had the appearance of wonders in the midst of all the open space and the small clusters of residential buildings here and there. During this time, Skopje had a music scene. Although not too many in number and frequency, Skopje had rock and roll bands and jazz music. Sport played a significant part in the lives of Skopjeans. There were many sporting clubs and local events that enabled people to engage in official competitions in football, basketball and handball.
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If you are a consumer of fascinating travel-related items on the Internet then you may have come across posts about the brutalist architecture of the former Yugoslavia. Those alien spacecraft-shaped monuments, such as the Makedonium in Krushevo, Macedonia appear to be otherworldly and a marvel to behold. Skopje is the proud home of several such structures that architecture buffs should see on their visit of the city. Few such buildings can be found in the very center. One, and probably the most striking of all, is the building of the post office, located off the Macedonia square. The building is a behemoth rotund with arches that branch outwards like the leafs of a bizarre flower. This part of the building can be see from the area where the Goce Delchev bridge meets the boulevard and from the parking surface that is up the stairs. The building of the Poshta was designed by Janko Konstantinov (1926 – 2010) who was born in Bitola and who had had used the Tzar Samoil's fortress in Ohrid as inspiration for one of the buildings of the complex in Skopje, as it can be seen in the photo below. The building of the Macedonian Opera and Balet looks like a polygon meant for alien craft. Its broad, white and sloping roof is enormous and as a whole, it is one of the most fascinating buildings in the country. The building can be see from all sides by walking a circle around it. You can begin by crossing the Vardar river from the Makedonija main square and by entering the plateau of the newly-built structure of the Macedonian Philharmony. Not too far from the city center is the brutalist building of the National Bank of the Republic of Macedonia, which is not as imposing as this building, but makes its impact on the visual field in that part of the city nevertheless. The building of the National Bank should be seen in context with the railroad station, which itself is one brutalist structure that rests on thousands of tonnes of concrete for its foundations. Although it doesn't appear to be as striking, the so-called New Railroad station (the old one is at the south end of Makedonija street) is massive as it is quite long. The image above is from the just-completed complex of student dormitories called Goce Delchev, named after the quintessential Macedonian revolutionary and educator who fought against the Ottomans and who opposed the Bulgarian and Greek psychological influence among the Macedonians. The architect of this "piece" was Georgi Konstantinovski (1930 - present) and construction began in 1969. Visitors to Skopje can enjoy this brutalist marvel directly from the ground by visiting the area which is a 15-minute walk from the City Mall shopping center and some 45 minutes by foot from the city center as part of the Taftalidze area along Boulevard Vasil Chakalarov. MONUMENTAL MK Mobile App for Brutalist Archutecture in Macedonia Those who want to get a better (remote) look at brutalist structures across Macedonia can download the MONUMENTAL MK app for Android and iOS. The story of each structure that belongs to this group is told through factographic information and images. Downloading the app gives you a partial view and being there gives these buildings the attention they deserve. The app itself enables visitors to Skopje and Macedonia to download the Brutalish Architecture Guide in multiple languages, including English, German, Albanian and Serbian.
Besides being a fun word to say, plonk is very important to the lifestyle of the average Macedonian person. Although this word doesn't exist in the Macedonian language, people use daily the thing that it represents. In English, plonk means cheap wine. We have lots of plonk in Macedonia. Not only is it cheap - it is also quite decent. This class of wine ranges in price between 100 and 200 denari. Young people use red plonk to make bambus - mixing the wine with cola or bunar (well) which is white wine mixed with fruits plus the optional bitter lemon drink or mineral sparkling water. Of course, you can have your wine straight and not feel the sting or sourness of a rubbish product. If dining at a restaurant or a kafana, if the waiter says the house has nalivno vino - this is either wine of the house or a small grower. Nalivno vino can also come from any of the large wineries. This is plonk that is served from a pitcher instead of a branded bottle. Nevertheless, most of the time, it is between decent and good. Some of the sorts of wine that you can enjoy for a couple of euros are: Smederevka - white Aleksandrija - white Vitach - red Vranec - red Kratoshija - red Kavadarka - red Roze - rose In fact, the sorts above are all up to 150 denari for bottles of 0.75 or 1L, depending on the maker. Wines for 200 denari are markedly better. 2020/2021 Edit: This is the period of the Corona pandemic and Skopje's most treasured memory of having pure air throughout the year. During the winter, when we are used to seeing spikes in the PM particles, the air in Skopje was - normal. There were few dangerous spikes but overall, the people were satisfied with the conclusion that this is how things should be every year.
The improvement happened due to a significant decrease in the traffic, because the winter was very mild (requiring little wood to burn or only the use of inverter air conditioners) and because the government tightened its control over the burning of waste by the industry. Also, thanks to investigative journalism by journalists and citizens and because of organized activism, the industry is careful in its choice of fuel and the government has been pressed to clean up its act. The problem of pollution is far from over, as now Skopjeans have seen that a higher standard can be maintained and this will be expected from now on. In all the previous yeas, the picture was completely different. The air quality is one of the things we are least proud of in Skopje. Sadly, during the winter Skopje is often in the top 20 most polluted cities in the world. I will share some information why Skopje is polluted , how serious is it and what you need to do in order to stay safe if you are visiting between November and March. Skopje doesn't create any more pollution than any city in around the world that has 500+ thousand residents. The main reason why the air quality goes down to dangerous levels is because Skopje is situated inside a valley. The river Vardar valley is surrounded by mountains. The smog gets trapped inside when the cold air pushes down to the ground level. You can see, smell and feel the air pollution, which is caused by residential houses burning wood, by diesel engines on the street and because some factories around the city use waste for fuel that they import from EU countries and mostly from Italy. Skopje's residents live with this every day in the winter, but there are ways to protect yourself. On good days the density of PM 10 and PM2.5 particles by cubic meter around the city is between 30 and 50. Up to 40 the PM levels are considered somewhat safe. When they pass 50 we are in the dangerous zone. When does pollution in Skopje reach peak levels? This usually happens when air pressure becomes low. Then the cold air pushes the smog down so it stays at ground level. People have also observed that PM levels become quite bad after rain. On warm days following rain in the winter, all of the condensed H2O fills the air, causing a fog, which carries the smog with it. Usually, the city center is not plagued by bad levels of pollution, because it is isolated from the streets and is far enough from residential areas that burn wood and oil for heating. Most of the measuring stations for PA10 and PA2.5 particulate matter are located on the major street intersections, which causes the PM levels to be high. Not all days are bad, but on bad days you can feel the sting in the air. To stay safe while going around the city, it is best to do two things: check the air quality via the My Air Web and Mobile app; and have an air mask. It is advisable to have a medical mask, which you can buy in the apothecary (pharmacy) stores around Skopje. For a higher level of safety, you should carry masks that have a HEPA filter, which wrap around the face. High PM levels go away with the weather warming up: this is when air pressure goes up and people rely less and less on wood for heating. It doesn't mean that there are no more PM particles. You can feel the smell of diesel on the street even in summer, but it is comparably a lot less dangerous than in the winter. Some years ago I went on a number of bicycle tours in different regions of Macedonia. The experiences enabled me to see a part of the country that very few people today get to see. An enthusiasm was born in me to visit more of those ancient villages where the houses are made of stone and mud only, that have walls that are 0.6m thick, according to those architectonic solutions of old. It is a fascinating phenomenon to say the least. I have been to a village that had only four people living in it. I wonder how many of them are still alive. This place is just so far away from everything else. Just talking to the old people in these villages was an experience. Their eyes were brilliant and peaceful. They were present in the moment. I learned this skill from my trips to the villages around Macedonia. Since 2014 I dedicated most of my excursions to one particular region, because I find it to be the most fascinating, the most unique place. I am very fortunate that I have made some friends there. If you are interested to visit this special zone, far away from civilization, I can take you there. I can only take few people and my availability is limited, so going there will require scheduling the adventure ahead of time. My approach is fully professional. I can take you there and we can have many conversations, or you can enjoy the silence and become immersed in the environment. If you try to become one with everything, you will see the magic in the flowers, in the rocks, in the air around it. I love it and I think everyone should get to love it. I can provide myself for a single day adventure but there is the option to stay one or two nights. Options for an accommodation are sleeping under an open sky, inside sleeping bags or tents (May to September) or sleeping in a modest house that has electricity, a toilet and water from a well. I don't have a fixed program for the adventures that I am offering. We can organized everything together ahead of time, or in the car. We can walk around the village, go on a light hiking trail, walk from village to village, visit a very old monastery, make food, pick wild tea, taste home-made goat cheese, visit my friends and drink rakija. We can make this a creative experience by making land art in the open field. We can visit the amazing shapes made of volcanic rock, we can go forest-bathing next to a stream, we can visit a religious temple or a burial chamber from antiquity. One thing that I can guarantee is, this will be a special experience with lots of photo opportunities. Getting there from Skopje takes 2.5 hours driving. I drive. If interested get in touch. About Me:
My name is Martin. I was born in Skopje and spent my childhood here, before moving to live in the United States for a number of years. I have been living in Skopje since my return. My passions are nature, food and books. Rakija has been present in the Macedonian culture for millennia. Etymologically, the word rakija share the same origin with the Anatolian drink Raki and with the alcohol distilled from barley, called Arak, that is popular among the Bon-po tribes in the Nepalese Himalayan villages. We don't know its exact origins, but it is without doubt that either rakija or the distillation method make this an ancient drink. Because the name rakija or arak exists across a large landmass, it is suspected that rakija is as old as humans. Some think that the ancient Macedonians used rakija before going into battle. If you have an experience with the drink you may feel its pecial properties, especially if it is made by a pro distiller who uses secret herbs. This alcoholic beverage is the subject of songs, stories and legend. One ethnic Macedonian song talks about Gjorgia (George) who had the habit of pulling out the knives in the tavern when he got drunk on wine. However, whenever George drank rakija it became another person because then he would reache for his pistol. Unfortunately for George, the girl who loved him was advised by her mother to keep away from him - because the rakija got the better of his temper. Yes, rakija can be an explosive drink and Macedonians prefer a strong taste with the percentage of alcohol by volume starting at 40% - which is the standard strength of the store variety. The home made variety can be casually consumed at 50%, as long as you have a sheep or goat cheese on the side, or some sort of vegetable as a side dish. Macedonian rakija has two general varieties. Along the vardar river and in the western part of the the counter it is primarily made of distilled grapes, but north-east quadrant of the country uses black plums. The flavor of this drink is difficult to put in words. If vodka feels dry, then rakija tends to have a viscous quality and a punctual aftertaste of fine alcohol, especially when it is ice-cold. Domestic distillers who make rakija from grapes produce the drink in three or more forms: pure white, yellow, and komova rakija. Depending on the master, the rakija may pack flavors that have been borrowed from the barrel in which the alcohol 'sleeps' for a number of months. Some people add their own touch for a signature flavor. Flavors can originate from herbs from the meadow or sticks of raw mulberry or oak wood, or something else. There are types of rakija that can't be found in any stores, such as walnut or cherry. Another general rule in Macedonia is that the best rakija can only be bought from small companies or producers who make it in limited quantities. If you are lucky to know one you can get rakija from someone who 'makes it for their own soul'. Choice rakija has been kept underground to age for a number of years, preferable ten or more. These are the bottles that Macedonians are saving for weddings and other special occasions.
So, how do you best enjoy rakija? There is an art of drinking rakija and if you don't know the basics, you can fail miserably. Most people will agree that rakija doesn't go with meat. If you are having meat, you can have rakija but before, not during or after your meal. Rakija traditionally goes with vegetables and Macedonian white cheese - not kashkaval, not mozzarella, not blue cheese - white or bieno cheese (sirenje) only. In the warm months people drink the rakija with a big plate of cucumbers or tomatoes in oil, vinegar and salt. Another standard salad for rakija is shopska. In the fall and winter, rakija is usually taken with turshija, which is a mix of pickled vegetables. The only type of meat that rakija goes well with are with pork greaves (chvarki or djimirinki) and fresh leek on the side. Many urban legends are told about the village people who use rakija as their doping. When people here lived the traditional village life, working the fields or herding domestic animals, they took a flask for the day and dosed rakija from the morning until the night - yet they never got drunk. The alcohol simply kept them going by placing the mind in a perfect frequency with the nature. The reason why people in Macedonia make their rakija very strong, compared to countries in the region, is geography. Traditionally through the centuries, the better part of the Macedonian people lived in the hills and mountains (2/3 of the country). These areas can get very cold year round. Even summers nights are chilly, so it always made sense to make the rakija sharp instead of sweet. For this reason Macedonian rakija is never sweet (like appricot and melon rakija in Serbia) or light like the Turkish raki (because of the very hot summers there). If you want to buy rakija you can go to any supermarket. There are people on the green markets who sell it, but it is not advised to buy it there because the drink can be adulterated and you don't have a taste for reference to know if you are buying the real thing. If you have friends in Macedonia you can ask for home-made rakija, but make sure that they know a true master (majstor) who makes exceptionally good destillate. The supermarket variety is of a standard quality. You can also enjoy rakija in any restaurant, just don't forget the salad and make sure that you never rush the glass. Na Zdravje - To Your Health! The fastest and most exciting way to ever take flight is by tandem paragliding. The way to experiencing paragliding in Skopje is easy - get in touch with one of the clubs, arrange a date, and take off from either the Vodno or Skopska Crna Gora mountains in the Skopje area, or few other locations around the country. The place for take-off is selected according to the weather conditions and direction of the wind. If the adventurers like to experience a specific region of Macedonia, the instructors will propose a date and time that fits the weather patterns and their availability. Here are some links that get you closer to enjoying some amazing views around Skopje and Macedonia: Paragliding Club Vertigo: https://www.facebook.com/pgvertigo/ 075281090 Paragliding Club XcHeli: paraglidingmacedonia.com Paragliding Club 2glide http://www.2glide.com/ Paragliding in Ohrid: https://www.paraglidingohrid.com/ |
AuthorExperience my home town Skopje Archives
June 2021
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